Goodbye to new friends!

We met up last night for a few anti-freezes (beer); yes the beer does contain anti-freeze, in my case a plain lime soda to say good-bye to our Blue Mountain friends.  They are all leaving tomorrow for various places.

Hamish has been here without the girls for company for the past two weeks but between Staz and SJ (aka mum & dad) taking turns skiing with him (and me trailing along) he has had a fantastic time.  He is an endearing four year old to spend time with and loves to ski.  There is nothing more special than when a child genuinely likes spending time with you.  The past few days he discovered "Angry Birds" on Ben's (the girls dad) iphone and Jim's ipad so when the adults meet for an anti-freeze top up Hamish is occupied.  Last night when the music was a tad loud Hamish says quite loudly "please turn that down", it was interrupting his concentration.  It made us all stop and pay attention.

The past month has been made even more enjoyable for me by spending time with the girls and Hamish (and their parents of course).

I shall miss them all! 

Jim has been joking with the hotel staff every day for the past five weeks asking for the English TV movie channels.  It only took them a few days to play the game with him.  Yesterday, they said the channel is now available and they weren’t joking.  Jim is so happy, to have the three things he loves beer, TV and skiing. 

I have included two unrelated photos just because it is nice to see the many sides of Gulmarg.

What happens when the living tree grows?

I love the house in the background, it looks inviting.

Bandicoot eyes!

A friend commented on my ski tan but Jim's is better.

When he is in bed with the doona pulled up to his chin I always have to look twice.  He looks bizarre, a tad scary like he has some disease.

It has been easy to get a tan with so many sunny days.
We have been here 4.5 weeks now and in that time there has been a week of non sunny days (when it has been snowing).

There is a snow storm due this week end with over one metre of snow predicted.  That will be good as the mountain is being tracked out except for those keen to trek further into the back country for untracked snow.  

Happy Australia Day!

It is another beautiful sunny day here in Gulmarg.

Neither of us is skiing today, which is not unusual for me but it is for Jim. The tongue of his ski boot broke yesterday so he has tried repairing it today.  If the repairs don't work he may have to hunt around to hire a pair of boots to see the season out??????  See what happens tomorrow.

We walked up to Highland Park for lunch.  It is a lovely old hotel, ornately decorated in the old English manner.  It would be a nice place to stay,  just a bit of a hike to the gondola.  The food is good and an added bonus one of the few places that serves beer.

A big male monkey was on guard at the gate walking up the hotel.  It is best to ignore the monkeys they can attack if provoked.  We did not provoke it but I think a group of monkeys below startled him with a cry so he had a go at us.  Jim was ready to punch it.  I started yelling at it, now that I am practised in dealing with the local wildlife I was not going to be pushed around.

Lunch was good.  Jim had chicken kanti (chicken pieces cooked in tomato, onion and capsicum) and nan.  I had a grilled vegetable (tomato, onion and cucumber) and cheese sandwich.  My staple drink besides tea and water is lemon soda plain, which is soda water with lime juice yes lime even though the name is lemon.  It is offered sweet (sugar added) or sour (salt added), I like it plain.

Walking back to our hotel we followed the poma (beginner) slopes where the locals and Indian tourists like to ski.  The poma had stopped for lunch (that can only happen in India) so we walked beside the poma track.  We were trying to give advice to two young boys that were skiing straight down the slope, to prevent them from head injuries.  No turns just straight down.  They were bouncing off the snow and it wasn't that soft.  It makes you cringe.

We are now back in the hotel soaking up the sun which beams in through the windows.  We are so lucky to have been given this room with the sun and wifi access.  Normally wifi is only available in the foyer but our room is straight above the reception desk where the wifi is.

Looking down the poma slope from Highland Park

View from Highland Park

A day in Gulmarg - Tuesday 22 Jan 2013

It is a beautiful sunny (but cold) day here in Gulmarg.

I went for a xcountry ski this morning around the golf course.  Had to wait a bit for the Indian army to disperse, they were also doing a loop.  Because I am clumsy I didn't want to embarrass myself and fall over in front of them nor did I want to accidentally knock a solider setting his gun off, they have them slunk over their shoulders.  It was a spectacular morning looking back over Affarwat and the surrounding hills.

Jim spent the morning doing more avalanche beacon searches outside the Ski Himalaya ski shop (hut) with the guides.  On my way back from my xcountry ski I went pass the hut to see what the boys were up to.  Had to have the obligatory chai which was nice sitting in the sun watching the boys look like sniffer dogs.  I have gotten use to drinking milk in tea but I still ask without sugar.  The sugar level would be good if you'd had a shock but not otherwise, they are heavy handed with the sugar.

There was three little boys playing on skis at the hut, relatives (of the boys that work for Ski Him) up from Tang Marg for the day.  Guides in training for the future.  I had fun playing with them showing them how to snow plough.

Went for a walk up to the market for lunch, had yummy cauliflower soup and Jim had a vegie & paneer (cottage cheese) burger.  He was after something not spicy after having an extremely spicy meal on Sunday night, a good bye meal to Adele and the girls.  It is still spicy for Jim if you know what I mean.

Snow (10cms) is predicted for tomorrow.  This time last week 10cms was predicted and we got 75cms. Locals are still trying to clear their roofs.  See what happens tomorrow.

The next generation ski guides

Snow plough - toes together, heels out!

Hot air balloon over the golf course

Who should we find at the market - Aftab our adopted son

Take a closer look at the men clearing the roof

It's snowing! Thursday 17 Jan 2013

We woke up this morning to snow and it is still snowing (5pm).
Jim spent the morning training with the guides, finding the avalanche beacons (aka bodies) while I spent it on the laptop emailing and generally lazing around the hotel room, you know how easy it is to waste hours on the computer.

Before lunch Jim came and got me and we had a couple of runs before heading indoors.  The snow is predicted to fall all night and tomorrow.

After lunch I walked down to the market for supplies of fruit, chips and chocolates.  The market place was quiet due to the snow, the locals are bunkering down for a cold cold night.

Due to the bear adventure the hotel staff, who we are quite friendly with are keeping close tabs on our (more so me) whereabouts.  As I was walking out the door four of them ask where are you going, where is Mr Jim.  I explained I am only walking to the market, no black bear will get me there, don't worry.
A little while later there I was sitting in Mr Khan's cloth house (a shopkeeper whom we have befriended) having a chat and Aftab, our adopted son (as he calls himself) from the hotel walks in.  I said have you come looking for me????  He smiles and says no, I needed to buy a pen.


Following Monday's bear adventure my skiing has been more leisurely.  I went for a x country ski on Tuesday around the golf course and yesterday met up with Ben (Dad) and Kia, and their friends Daz and Hamish (3) who have just arrived for a couple of runs under the gondola.  Unfortunately Tarinna had Delhi belly so Adele was staying indoors with her.

The girls are keen, they rang me this morning to ask if I would like to go skiing through the trees down to the temple with them, it is a popular run when it is snowing.  I declined, but it was lovely of them to ask me.  I will catch up with them over the next two days to have a run and say goodbye as they are leaving on Monday.  I will  miss them.

Looking out of our hotel room at the falling snow.

Same view, different angle.

I thought bears hibernated for the winter

You are not going to believe this but yesterday on one of our girl skiing adventures we came across a bear. 

It started with us (girls) looking for a new adventure.

We had Javed, Adele & Ben’s Kashmiri guide to ourselves as Ben was in Srinagar meeting up with friends.   Javed suggested we ski down to Tang Marg.  We (girl adventurers) did not hesitate, we all agreed because the mornings skiing had been fun so far.  

That was soon to change. 

It was midday, we thought we would ski down to Tang Marg, have lunch at Downhill Restaurant and catch a taxi back up. 

Unfortunately we never made lunch and almost missed dinner. 

It was just bad luck.  Javed chose the wrong way.  After two hours of skiing we were in a canyon.  We had no way out but to back track to a point where we could attempt to climb up a hill to a ridge which would hopefully lead us to the road to Tang Mang.  At this point Javed phoned friends for help, made difficult with sketchy mobile reception.

He was worried about the infants (as he called the girls).

His three friends turned up to help when we were climbing up the hill.  By this time Adele had nearly reached the top of the ridge.  All of a sudden the boys started yelling, sounding like noises scaring a wild animal off and that is exactly what was happening.  There was a black bear standing behind Adele.  She said she saw its breath.  Javed was between me and Adele and the girls were below me with our rescuers.  I only saw its shoulder as I was hanging onto a tree stump to help from slipping down the hill.  I feel I can’t write how steep it was because you may not believe me.  

Anyway, both girls climbed up to me and we huddled behind the stump while the other boys climbed up to Adele.  One of the boys produced a huge knife.  They saw the bear had cubs; it was protecting its young. More yelling!  I hugged the girls; we remained quiet behind the stump.

We had no choice but to skin up and traverse across the hill we had just climbed up to take a wide berth of the bear, not really knowing where it’s den was.  Skinning up is when you place strips of fabric that stick under your skis to enable you to walk up hill & you also need touring bindings, where your boots fit which release so you can lift your heel to walk freely.  Adele had her skins but she was in a set of Javed’s skis (trying them out), they didn’t have touring bindings so she had to walk with her ski boots locked in, not an easy task especially uphill and the steepness of the uphill which we were tackling.  She was amazing, so strong.

We were in darkness for about three hours skinning, climbing, and finally the last leg of our adventure skiing down to the road.  Even though the darkness was unnerving to move in, we coped as one of the boys had a head torch and two others had mobiles.  Because we were moving on a side of hill, which was tree lined there was very little light coming off the night sky.  The truth was I was glad of the darkness because the steepness was easier for me to deal with not being able to see it. 

The boys were brilliant with the girls mostly carrying them on their shoulders while they were climbing, skinning and skiing.  They were good with us as well making sure we were okay.  Insisting we drink water and eat chocolates that they have brought with them.  I have nothing but praise for everyone who helped us.

We finally got into a taxi on the road at 8.30pm.  The girls were amazing, giggling and chatting in the taxi, saying how brave they were, which they were.  Having the girls with us made it easier to be calm and braver (well on the outside anyway).

Our adventure lasted 8.5 hours. 

PS.  I will hopefully catch up with Adele tomorrow and get some photos, earlier on in the adventure Javed was taking photos for Adele.  

New Friends

I was lucky to be introduced to a family from the Blue Mountains and have been skiing with them for the past week.

The Mum, Adele and her two daughters Tarinna (6) and Kia (4) are fun skiing partners.  

Dad, Ben sometimes joins us for a run but like most boys here in Gulmarg prefers the steeper terrain so we often only catch up for lunch.  The dynamics of the family are amazing and work so well.  Skiing with a family is a challenge in itself but skiing with a family in Gulmarg is something completely different.

The girls take turns picking a path down from the mid station (phase 1) to the bottom of the gondola.  They call it adventure skiing.  The girls are trailblazers.  

The locals and domestic Indian tourists love taking photos of the girls and they oblige with cheesy grins.  Take a look at our below photo and you’ll understand why they are so popular.

Whilst I have been skiing with the girls Jim has been enjoying catching up with the Ski Himalaya group and having runs with them.  

He is enjoying his role with Ski Him.  For the next two weeks he is doing training sessions with them on first aid, avalanche beacon finding and guest services.

It has not snowed for nearly a week but the overnight snow we got last week was good fun.  You could hear lots of yahoo’s around the place whilst skiing.

More snow is predicted over the next few days (Wed 16 Jan to Fri 18 Jan).  It is needed, to help cover up some rocks and branches and just a top up to make skiing easier.

My new friends at the bottom of the gondola

Fresh snow last week, view out of our bedroom window.

Tarinna, me and Kia - thank goodness for friends

Gulmarg 8 Jan 13 Tuesday

We have been in Gulmarg over a week now and I realised I hadn't shown you any photos of our accommodation "Grand Mumtaz".

It is very comfortable and the staff are very friendly and helpful.  The food, as I have mentioned before is yummy.

Jim and I both had a rest day today.  My cold/flu/tummy bug (whatever it is) is improving as each day goes on but am still reluctant to venture too far (without a toilet close by).
We caught the gondola up to the mid station and sat in the sun for a couple of  hours.  It was glorious with the sun on our backs.
We chatted with the Ski Him guests who were waiting for phase 2 (which takes you to the top of the mountain) to open.  Discussing how the conditions are a challenge without fresh snow.  They are a good group.  Dealing with everything in their stride, quick to grasp the antics of Gulmarg.

It was easy to pass a few hours,  watching the Indian tourists learning to snow plough and Indian families snow playing, chatting with the local guides and watching skiers and boarders making their way down the mountain.

Jim at the desk

Grand Mumtaz

Our comfortable bed

The only English speaking channel is National Geographic

Looking from our entrance 

Gulmarg 7 Jan 13 Monday

Will someone please stop that dog from barking!

Dogs roam free all over India.  They are not normally a threat to humans.  They fight amongst themselves for rights over the rubbish, territory and girl dogs.

Last night one barked for over an hour from 12.30 to 1.30am, I think I feel asleep about then.  It has happened a few times before at various places we have stayed. 

The dogs laze in the sun along the home trail.  The other day we were skiing down the home trail and one got up to run after Jim, then he turned and saw me and did the same.  I had to swerve to miss it.  Looking back it just laid down again.  What a waste of energy.

Skiing the last bit of the home trail, you have to dodge the dog poos.

It could only happen in India! 

Jim skied this morning, to check on the first lot of Ski Himalaya guests. They arrived yesterday afternoon.  Unfortunately it hasn't snowed since we arrived so the snow conditions are not ideal.  There is so much snow but because it is not groomed it is cut up and a challenge to ski.  

I stayed in to rest, India has caught up with me if you know what I mean so I am having to stay close to home.

Needing fresh air we walked to the market this afternoon. On the way back had to stop at a "pay and use" toilet block 5rps (.08 cents) unfortunately the pipes are frozen so there is no water so I had to go and ask for water to flush.  The toilet attendant asked hot or cold water, I replied whatever is easier it is only for flushing.  It was a odd scene, there I was asking for water standing by the toilet door and he is asking me "am I here skiing by myself".  I explained no, my husband is waiting outside for me.  

Dogs lazing around

View from end of market

View from top of phase 2 (top of mountain) yesterday

All the dogs are well fed

When I get outside Jim is chatting to a young Kashmiri guy.  Jim was taking a photo of the dog in the rubbish trailer and the young guy came over and said "dog not human" meaning why are you taking a picture of him.  The difference between what we think is odd and what they think is normal.  

Gulmarg 3 Jan 2013 Thursday

We had our first ski yesterday. 

It took a couple of days to get our season passes organised in true Indian bureaucracy.  

It was a beautiful sunny day and hardly anyone on the slopes.  We only had four runs (10kms in total) but that was enough for our first day.  The snow was light powder in areas and wind swept in others but overall good fun except for those falls I had. 

When we arrived the hotel was busy with Indian tourists but most have gone home now that the New Year holiday is over.  There are only ten rooms occupied out of forty.  Apparently it gets busier in a week with February being their busiest month.

The food at the hotel is really good.  Breakfast is a buffet of porridge (too sweet in typical Indian fashion), toast, eggs, Indian fare of rice, noodles, chapatti, juice, fruit, tea and coffee.

Dinner is a buffet: soup, rice, pappas, naan, a meat dish, dahl and a couple of veggie dishes and sweets, semolina or rice (once again too sweet).  It is yummy.  One bad thing about dinner is the time it is served - 8pm.  That is late for us.  We like to be in bed by 9, which we still are but now we have full bellies, not so good.

Now that we have been here a few days, the hotel does have a few idiosyncrasies; like the hot water only coming on from 7pm.  It stays on overnight but by mid morning is off again and the heating comes on around 4-5pm and stays on overnight also being turned off during the day.  We are lucky because our room has a large window facing the mountain and the sun shines in heating it up nicely during the day.

Jim has been busy with Ski Himalaya work for the past two days.  There is a bit to organise.  While Jim is doing Ski Him work I do yoga, read or walk.  I will start cross country skiing as well.  I went and checked out the track today. The past few days have gone really quickly.  The first lot of Ski Him guests arrives on Jan 6 and then it is steady till the end of February.  

I will probably only blog once a week or so from now on because life is in a bit of a routine already and routines do not make for good blogs. 

Snow is predicted for next Wednesday 9 January, sunny days till then.  Will head out for a ski in the morning and then Jim has Ski Him work again in the afternoon. 

Skiing past the rubbish trailers - a scar on a beautiful landscape
the picking order is dogs, crows then the monkeys

Going up the chair

Alfresco dining in the distance, taken from chair - notice gondola