Saturday 27 April 2013

Varanasi afternoon sights


We visited Sarnath, the Buddhist city 13kms out of Varanasi, a continuation from Varanasi now but once a separate town.  
It is an important place for Buddhist pilgrims to visit because Buddha gave his first sermon there.  Even though it was hot it felt cooler in Sarnath because there are lots of trees.  It was once a forest and many remain today.
Jyoti told us Varanasi is famous for three foods: bell juice, spicy lassi and curd.  She asked if we were keen to try any of them.  As usual I said yes, Jim gave a quick no! We all laughed.  We stopped at her favourite roadside lassi cart.  Watching the man make them I was thinking what have I agreed to.  He put in a mint paste, chopped up red onion, green chillies, lemon juice and curd (yoghurt) sprinkled with coriander and cumin seeds.  What a bizarre taste, it was like drinking a curry meal.  I love a sweet lassi because they are equivalent to a fruit smoothie but I could only drink half of the spicy lassi, it is an acquired taste. 
The cart next door was selling bell juice.  Jyoti said it tastes like lemon and you add either sugar or salt or both.  As much as I have loved a fresh lemon soda nearly every day I didn't want to offend (a second time) if I couldn't drink it after not finishing the spicy lassi.  Jim should have tried it though as it has medicinal qualities for stomach complaints and his tummy is still gurgling. 

Next stop the silk emporium.  There was a demonstration on a hand loom, poor man we dragged him away from his lunch.  The handloom was referred to as the modern handloom, we all gulped.  It looked ancient to us.  It is the modern loom because the pattern is designed and put on cards that are fed through the loom.  It takes 15 days to make a scarf and using the manual hand loom takes two craftspeople and twice as long.  The manual handloom is a dying art because no one wants to learn the old hard way.  It is the way of the world – can’t say I blame anyone in this case.  The work is outsourced to local villagers where the hand looms are set up.  You can only image the villagers get paid a pittance. 
Varanasi is known for its silk products, the silk comes from Kashmir and the weaving is done here.  The things you learn. 
Back to the hotel for a 2-hour rest.  Jyoti joined us as her village is a 45 minute drive away on her scooter.  We enjoyed lunch with her and learning all about her life.  She is a modern Indian woman breaking with tradition but that is a whole other story.  Her path is a hard one but she is to be admired for her bubbly persona and positive outlook on her complicated life. 
Man working the loom

Bell outside Buddhist temple

Inside Buddhist temple

Inside Buddhist temple

The Lassi cart

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